Mountain View Daylily Nursery


Daylilies Are Fast Growers

           A Single Division

      After One Month's Growth

      After One Year's Growth

    Daylilies Grow Well In Pots

How To Grow Daylilies



Remove them from the box as soon as possible.
They may appear dry but don’t worry - they won’t die!  You can store them for several days if you’re not ready to plant yet - just keep them in a COOL and DRY area, but please don’t put them in the fridge! (They’re not bulbs!)  

If your garden is not ready, pot them up or “heel” them in to damp sand or loose soil in a shady spot for now.


The ideal location is a sunny, well drained position where they will receive at least 6 hours of sunlight, and with no competition from the roots of trees or other vigorous plants (eg agapanthus). Avoid planting in parts of your garden where other plants have not grown well.  

Please note:  Protection from the hot afternoon sun is advised in areas with very hot summers. In Tasmania and cool areas of the southern states, plant them where they will get maximum sunshine, especially during winter.

Daylilies are not suitable to grow in very shaded parts of the garden, as they will not flower well in shaded areas.


Daylilies like a free-draining soil with old manures or compost added to it. NEVER put fresh manure around your plants, as it’s too “HOT” and does more harm than good. Any type of manure should be aged, or preferably composted, before being added to the soil. I recommend Searle’s Real Compost Mix, an excellent organic soil conditioner.

NOTE: Mushroom compost is NOT recommended. It contains a lot of magnesium and can cause the soil to compact.  

If you are experiencing frosts now you may need to protect your newly planted daylilies until the frost season is over.  Pot them up and place in a sunny spot near the walls of your house, or in a warm sheltered position where they will not be frost prone. Once established, daylilies are frost hardy - they may suffer burnt foliage from frost but it won’t kill them. See below for how to grow daylilies in pots.

If you are experiencing high temperatures in your area now (consistently 30 degrees or more) we recommend you pot up your new daylilies and place in semi shade, then transplant into your garden when the weather cools down. OR...plant them into a position now in your garden that is shaded from the scorching afternoon sun. This will reduce heat stress and help the plants to establish more readily.  


Don’t plant your daylilies too deep - they’re not bulbs!  Dig a shallow hole, form a mound and spread the roots out over it. Cover the roots and crown with soil so you can just see where the new foliage will emerge, then water in gently to settle the soil around the roots.

Allow approx 75-90cm space between your daylilies. Daylilies love mulch -  hay, cane mulch or pine bark are all suitable. Apply a generous layer of mulch to improve moisture retention and help reduce weeds.



It is very important NOT TO OVER WATER in the first few weeks after planting. Once a week only during the first month is enough. Daylilies DON’T like wet feet and will rot if kept constantly wet.

During times of rapid growth and in bloom season, water deeply once a week. If water is scarce they can tolerate grey water - daylilies are very hardy.


After planting, apply a handful of a well balanced organic fertiliser to the soil surface - no closer than 15cm (6”). Adding a handful of lime per square metre per year is very beneficial, and worm castings are also recommended. Organic fertilisers such as Dynamic Lifter Plus can be applied every 3 months. Colin Campbell, the well known gardener from ABC Gardening Australia, recommends Dynamic Lifter for Roses as an excellent fertiliser for daylilies.

Blood & Bone or aged chicken manure may be used in moderation only. Please don’t overdo it as they contain very high levels of nitrogen. This causes daylilies to rapidly grow  “fat” - i.e. lots of lovely foliage but no flowers, and may lead to crown rot in extreme cases, particularly during warm and humid weather.  

NOT recommended: Chemical fertilisers. These look like coarse salts and can upset beneficial soil life.  

Strongly recommended: Liquid seaweed and fish emulsion. Dilute well and spray onto the foliage, or sprinkle over the plants and soil monthly with a watering can.


Daylilies are seldom affected by pests and diseases, however aphids may be noticed in autumn and spring. These tiny pests live in the centre of the clumps and can be easily controlled by dumping plenty of soapy water on the plants. It’s ok to use laundry water, as long as it doesn’t have any chlorine bleach in it! You may have to repeat this treatment.

Daylily rust may appear on the old outer leaves in autumn and spring, IF it is present in your local area. Rust should not be confused with normal discoloration of old leaves dying off.

To check for rust, look for orange powdery deposits that can be easily wiped from the foliage with a tissue. Either remove all the old leaves and dispose of them in a sealed plastic bag in your dustbin, or trim the whole clump and spray well with a rose fungicide eg,Triforine.

NOTE: Daylily rust will NOT affect other plants, eg gladioli, canna lilies. These are prone to their own unique type of rust.


Use large pots (at least  8” / 20cm diameter) to allow plenty of room for the roots. It’s essential to use top quality potting mix, adding approx 30% good garden soil and some compost to the mix before planting. You may need to water pots more frequently, but don’t place potted daylilies in saucers that are constantly full of water - they will rot away. In hot and dry weather please check that the potting mix does not become water repellent.
Monthly applications of diluted liquid seaweed and fish fertilisers are highly recommended for daylilies in pots. For best results, replace the potting mix every year in early winter. If your daylilies become pot-bound, divide them with a large knife, trim the roots and foliage back and re-pot the new divisions.



    How To Divide Daylilies

Trim Tops & Roots

  Cut Between Divisions

     Cut Through The Crown

   Plant The New Division

All rights reserved © Scott Alexander 2002 All images are the property of Scott Alexander unless stated otherwise.